
Postcard From the Riva Before Kickoff
A Europa League qualifier against Zilina becomes the excuse for a whole city's evening ritual
Split arrives at its football match the the way it arrives at everything else: by the sea. Two hours before kickoff, the Riva promenade fills with white and blue, sunburnt shoulders and beer cups catching the last low light off the Adriatic. Diocletian's Palace empties its tourists into the crowd, and for one evening the sixteen-hundred-year-old walls become just another backdrop to a Thursday-night Europa League qualifier against MSK Zilina. Nobody in this crowd is thinking about coefficients. They are thinking about the walk to Poljud.</drop_cap_paragraph> <parameter name="format">feature










